7 Stages of Apparel Samples
***Note that these are the 7 stages for high volume orders, not for small run production.
Preview of Samples
Apparel “samples” actually refers to a series of different items produced for different purposes during the development process. Note that each type of sample has alternative names.
· » Muslin (a.k.a. dummy, mock-up, drape, prototype, proto)
· » Fit sample (a.k.a. first sample, original sample, sample test garment, development sample, design sample, style reference, parent pattern)
· » Sew-by sample (a.k.a costing sample, pre-production, pre-pro, P/P)
· » Sales sample (a.k.a counter sample, duplicate)
· » Photo sample (a.k.a model size, flat sample, editorial sample)
· » Size run (a.k.a size set, sizing sample)
· » Top of production (a.k.a TOP)
The Breakdown
You are probably confused at this point. Here is the breakdown of the different sample types I mentioned and how they fit into the pre-production process.
(1) Muslin
This is the very first concept sample, typically sewn in an inexpensive fabric. It’s a loose take of your design used to visualize an idea in three-dimensional form. A rough muslin typically excludes extras such as bags and trims – it’s created for pure focus on construction. For some smaller brands, the muslin is also known as the prototype. This may go through multiple iterations of prototypes before you finalize your pattern.
(2) Fit sample
Related Reading: Ask These 3 Questions Before Working With A Factory
This sample is created from your first pattern and used to ensure the desired fit of the garment. Muslins or prototypes are often used hand-in-hand as fit samples.
(3) Sew-by sample
Used by factories, this sample reflects all of the construction information needed to produce the style. Factories use this sample to estimate cost of production. Any changes to the design after a factory has reviewed a sew-by sample could mean going through the quoting process again. For a cost effective alternative, your finalized prototype could also be designated your sew-by sample.
(4) Sales sample
This sample is sewn by your factory in order to prove the production costs along with the quality of assembly. You can then use this sample for marketing and presentation to buyers.
(5) Photo sample
This is self-explanatory. Photo samples are made to the size of model you are using for product photography. If you aren’t using a model for your lookbook or e-commerce imagery, it is still recommended that you have smaller size photo samples that can fit into into frame of the camera.
(6) Size run
These are a full suite samples made in each size that the style will be sold in, made to ensure appropriate grading of the style and the fit of each garment. One way to save a bit of money, in fabric and trimming as well as cut and sew costs, would be to produce every other size.
(7) Top of production
This set of samples is taken off the line during your first production order. The number of TOPs you receive is typically a percentage of the full production order in each variation, but this can get expensive. One way to save costs would be to keep your TOP percentage very low. For small batch orders, one or two garments per variation should suffice.
Why are Multiple Samples Necessary?
There are many reasons why it’s recommended to make multiple samples. You don’t have to cut them all at once. You may want just one prototype while you are working with your designer, but then order a new sample when you add another person to the chain.
Samples eliminate errors
We’ve all had a nightmare shopping experience in which what was advertised looked very different from what arrived in the mail. Maybe the arms fit strangely. Maybe the fabric began pilling unexpectedly after 2 washes. Samples allow you to minimize such issues before production begins.
Source: https://makersrow.com
